THE REFERENCE AMONG DIVERS’ WATCHES

The Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date, archetypes of the divers’ watch, epitomize the historic link between Rolex and underwater exploration.
The Submariner was the first Rolex divers’ wristwatch. At its release in 1953, it was waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). Just a year after its launch, its waterproofness was guaranteed to a depth of 200 metres (660 feet), and it was soon fitted with other technical innovations, such as a luminescent disc on the hour hand to clearly distinguish it from the minute hand, and a crown guard. Some years later, in 1969, Rolex unveiled the Submariner Date, a version of the model with a date function. Its waterproofness, then guaranteed to 200 metres, was extended in 1979 to a depth of 300 metres (1,000 feet). The Submariner was guaranteed waterproof to the same depth in 1989.

Since then, the two watches have moved well beyond the marine world. Over time, they have become the watches of choice for a wide range of sports and other activities – indeed, true symbols of the action watch.

CERACHROM BEZEL INSERT
The unidirectional rotatable bezel of the Submariner and Submariner Date is equipped with a 60-minute graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert – in black, blue or green – that allows divers to monitor their time underwater. This insert is made of extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramics whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, thanks to their chemical composition, the high-tech ceramics are inert and cannot corrode. The graduations and the numerals are moulded into the ceramic and coated with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process. The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip and can be manipulated with ease, even when wearing gloves.

In addition to its functions and its intrinsic technical qualities, the bezel of the Submariner and Submariner Date contributes to the very strong visual identity of these two models.

LEGIBLE AND FUNCTIONAL
In the underwater depths, being able to read the time with absolute certainty is a matter of survival. Great attention was paid to the legibility of the Submariner and Submariner Date: the dial of these divers’ watches features a pared-back design and incorporates the Chromalight display. The simple forms of the hour markers – triangles, circles and rectangles – and the hands, which are clearly differentiated in size and shape, are filled or coated with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting blue glow. On the bezel, the triangular ‘zero’ marker of the graduation is visible in the dark thanks to an embedded capsule containing the same luminescent material.

THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS
The Oyster case of the Submariner and Submariner Date, 41 mm in diameter and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 300 metres (1,000 feet), is a paragon of robustness and reliability. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel or 18 ct yellow gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool employed by approved watchmakers. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. On the Submariner Date, it features a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.

BRACELET AND CLASP: SECURITY AND COMFORT
The Submariner and Submariner Date are fitted on a three-piece link Oyster bracelet. Equipped with a Rolex-designed Oysterlock safety clasp that prevents accidental opening, this bracelet is furnished with the patented Rolex Glidelock extension system, also developed by the brand. On the Oyster bracelet, this inventive toothed mechanism has 10 notches of approximately 2 mm, allowing the bracelet length to be effortlessly adjusted by approximately 20 mm. The watch can therefore be worn over a diving suit up to 3 mm thick.

On the 18 ct gold versions of the Submariner Date, the Oyster bracelet includes ceramic inserts – designed by Rolex and patented – around the pins inside the links to help prevent premature wear and to enhance its flexibility on the wrist.

CALIBRES 3230 AND 3235
The Submariner is equipped with calibre 3230, while the Submariner Date is fitted with calibre 3235, self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A distillation of technology, these movements carry a number of patents. They offer outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.

Calibres 3230 and 3235 incorporate the patented Chronergy escapement, made of nickel-phosphorus, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability and is resistant to strong magnetic fields.

These movements additionally include the blue Parachrom hairspring. Manufactured in a paramagnetic alloy enabling it to withstand strong magnetic fields, this hairspring also offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibres’ regularity in any position.

The oscillator of these two calibres has a large balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also mounted on the Rolex-designed, high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movements’ shock resistance.

Calibres 3230 and 3235 are fitted with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide a constant source of energy. Thanks to their barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of these two movements extends to approximately 70 hours.

The movements of the Submariner and Submariner Date are beautifully finished and decorated. Since 2023, they have also been marked with the words ‘Chronometer Perpetual’ and ‘Superlative Adjusted’ engraved on the oscillating weight and on the bridges, respectively.

THE SUBMARINER AND SUBMARINER DATE, SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED
Like all Rolex watches, the Submariner and Submariner Date are covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification. Symbolized by a green seal, this in-house certification is strictly controlled by internationally recognized, independent Swiss entities. It ensures the excellent on-the-wrist performance of each of the brand’s watches and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

In 2026, the Superlative Chronometer certification was expanded to seven testing criteria. Resistance to magnetism, reliability and durability were added to the criteria for precision, waterproofness, self-winding and autonomy, established when the certification was redefined 
in 2015.

The requirements in terms of precision are particularly stringent. Each Rolex movement is first officially certified as a chronometer. This means that, having passed a series of eliminating tests, it fulfils the criteria governing the ‘chronometer’ designation for wristwatches. For the category of calibres concerned, which includes all Rolex movements, the tolerated rate deviation is –4 and +6 seconds per day.

After casing the movement, the precision is tested again, following a protocol developed by Rolex that simulates real-life wearing conditions, to meet even stricter criteria: the watch’s accuracy must be between –2 and +2 seconds per day. The rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is therefore significantly smaller than that accepted for official certification of the movement alone.

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